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Auto detailing is a professional service that involves the art and craft of cleaning and restoring a vehicle to like-new condition. Unlike a car wash, which are typically automated systems catered to exterior cleaning, auto detailing is a much more involved and precise practice performed by hand and requires in-depth knowledge and understanding of the tools, products, and techniques adopted relative to their applications on any given vehicle. Auto detailing includes a variety of both exterior and interior services which may differ between establishments. Most professional detailers will provide the following core services: Exterior Detailing Wash and Dry – Commonly performed by hand for the entire body of the vehicle as well as the wheels, trim, and glass using water, a surfactant of choice, and variety of media including sponges, wash mitts, and microfiber towels. Paint Decontamination – Iron/tar chemical removers and clay bars are used to remove contaminants and residue left on the vehicle's surface from prolonged exposure to outdoor elements. Decontamination provides a cleaner and more uniform surface to improve the effectiveness of paint correction and the curing of any applied protectants. Paint Correction –Polishing and compounding using abrasive agents to remove existing imperfections and oxidation that reside on the clear coat surface. This is often performed using a machine polisher or can be done by hand. Sealing, Waxing, or Coating – A protectant layer is applied to give a vehicle protection, shine and gloss. These may be infused with ceramic, graphene, or diamond quartz to enhance durability and longevity. Interior Detailing Vacuuming – Seats, carpets and mats, headliner, and cargo area to clean debris. Shampoo and Scrubbing – To remove stains on floor carpets and mats. Steam Cleaning – Sanitization and breakdown of tough stains in fabrics and upholstery. Extraction – Removal of stains and excess moisture from use of water and cleaning agents Glass Cleaning – To remove oils and off-gassing from the evaporation of interior components on windshields and windows.

We cannot deny the convenience, cost, and results achieved visiting your local car wash. And as car wash technologies improve, they are becoming less aggressive on your vehicles paint. However, because of the mechanical and standardized nature of car washes, they introduce more risks to paint and coatings for those inclined in maintaining their vehicle’s finish as much as possible. Brushes used during traditional automated car washes naturally cause marring due to high rotational speeds and stiff bristles to ensure cleaning. Touchless car washes can also be harmful as, to compensate for lack of mechanical agitation, they introduce strong chemicals and very high pressures at an upwards of 2200psi which is 1.5-2x the recommended pressure deemed safe for paint. Detailing by comparison is a more controlled and methodical process that is tailored to the conditions of your specific vehicle at the time of service. The techniques and practices adopted at every step, though more time-consuming and costly, leads to a more preserved and profound finish. We often recommend detailing your own vehicles or booking an appointment with your local detailer at minimum every season for a comprehensive cleaning, decontamination, and protection application, especially during the spring to remove aggressive road salts and during the fall to protect and winterize your vehicle. Should you choose to include car washes as part of your maintenance in-between, we suggest that a traditional car wash is better on most vehicles as it is less damaging than touchless washes, contrary to popular belief. Touchless washes are more suited for coated vehicles in which the protectants added have greater chemical vs. abrasion resistance. If your vehicle is well maintained, a quick visit to your local coin wash also makes for an excellent alternative. Be mindful to use the pressure wand at a safe distance 2-4ft away strictly for water, and if allowed, use your own pH-neutral cleaning agents to best preserve and restore any existing protectants on your vehicle.

At SIGMA Auto Detail, we take pride in delivering top-tier auto detailing services of unparalleled excellence, convenience and customer satisfaction. What sets us apart is our commitment to using only the best techniques and high-quality products and equipment to ensure that your car receives the most thorough detailing and restoration possible. From exterior undercarriage flushes, engine bay cleanings, paint polishing and waxing, to interior reconditioning and ceramic applications, our team is dedicated to providing exceptional customer service, and we work tirelessly to ensure that your car looks and feels better than new after every visit. We also offer a range of detailing packages to meet the specific needs of our clients, so you can choose the service that best fits your budget and requirements including mobile services to bring our expertise right to your doorstep. In addition, we are committed to using environmentally friendly products and techniques in our detailing processes, ensuring that your car is not only cleaned and polished to perfection but also safe for the environment. By investing in our artistry, you can enhance the appearance, value and longevity of your vehicle, and enjoy a clean, fresh and comfortable ride. Above all, when you choose SIGMA, you become part of our team and join a community we wish to grow, educate, and inspire with the hopes detailing becomes a passion for you just as much as it is for us.

We have designed our packages to systematically meet a variety of needs and budgets while maximizing cleanliness and showmanship year round. Our philosophies and recommendations are as follows: [ζ] ZETA – Express Exterior Maintenance (Bi-Weekly) An excellent alternative to the traditional car wash to provide a deeper exterior clean and added protection while preserving your vehicle's paint and existing coatings. This package is designed from the ground up to be a mobile express service tailored to clients who have water restrictions such as condo owners, or for those seeking a quick detail while on the go whether at work or running errands. Weather depending, this service can also be extended to the winter months to routinely and safely remove salt stains from exterior surfaces. [α] ALPHA – General Maintenance (Monthly) An extension of our [ζ] ZETA package to provide similar mobile and winter benefits while adding more comprehensive cleaning to include interior surfaces. It is a more cost effective option for those who do not want to maintain their vehicle as regularly or are comfortable achieving these needs using an automated car wash or doing so as independent enthusiasts. This package provides our essential services and allows for scaling and additional options to be included as seen in our more premium offerings. [Σ] SIGMA – Decontamination (Quarterly) Even with routine cleanings, moderate precipitation throughout the year causes a build up of interior moisture and debris, and an accumulation of both hard minerals and traffic biofilms on painted/coated surfaces by 3-4 months. This package is meant to address these issues to give your vehicle a fresh start every season with a complete exterior and interior decontamination - primarily to ensure proper curing of protectants prior to winter, remove aggressive road salts in the spring, address mud and moisture by summer, and clean leaves and other debris during the fall. Like the above options, we offer this as a mobile service as well with more residential owners in mind as chemicals involved are less eco-friendly for waterways in commercial areas. [Σ.V] SIGMA.V – Paint Enhancement (Semi-Annually) [On-site Only] Regardless of washing technique and protection applied, the clear coat of your vehicle's paint will both oxidize and experience cosmetic imperfections overtime reducing its luster and gloss. In addition to the decontamination service above, we recommend substituting your spring or fall quarterly details with this added service to restore ~75% of the finish. These months are the most optimal as the cool temperatures allow for a more uniform exterior polish and, in combination with milder natural lighting, brings a more picturesque look and feel when it can be most appreciated. A glass sealant is also added to this package to maintain the clarity of your windshield and windows as these months tend to have the most precipitation. [Σ.W] SIGMA.W – Paint Correction (Annually) [On-site Only] For a more complete restoration, this package is designed to meticulously clean and protect the cabin interior for ease of maintenance with subsequent services, while achieving exterior results that are more corrective than a typical paint enhancement as outlined above. We aim for a fine balance between preservation and perfection and thus use the opportunity to assess the vehicle's paint using a thickness gauge as well as specialized lighting to identify swirls and scratches. [Σ.W] SIGMA.W restores ~85% of the finish and seals it behind a showroom ready wax with exceptional durability of at least 1-year. We recommend substituting your fall quarterly details with this added service to protect both the exterior and interior in preparation for the following winter months, or to restore the properties of an existing coating/film that may be embedded with contaminants or fine scratches. [Σ.X] SIGMA.X – Diamond Coating (As Needed) [On-site Only] Should you desire the best of the best in terms of both exterior and interior protection and restoration, [Σ.X] SIGMA.X is our most premium offering involving our entire state-of-the-art service suite. A multi-stage polish and compound is performed to more aggressively level the clear coat surface to restore near ~95% OEM condition prior to being coated with a nano-diamond protectant rated to last at least 6-years. As this package is a large investment to our clients and we believe in delivering a holistic end-product, we use the additional service hours to further refine details and areas often overlooked such as the wheel wells, headlights and turn signals, windshield cowl, glass, door gaskets, headliners, emblems, and more. This comprehensive package takes multiple days to complete and we often recommend ensuring you have a secondary vehicle and/or dropping the vehicle with us during a weekend or extended trip.

Absolutely! Our packages provide a framework for most user experiences while adding the flexibility to mix and match exterior and interior services, or add and upgrade individual services with our most recent update. We welcome clients to specify what additional services they seek during the booking process. If you have a specific service in mind or unsure what particular options are best for your needs, we recommend reaching out to us for a quote so that we can work together in creating a plan designed for you.

Especially for our mobile services we encourage clients to book multiple vehicles at a time as these additional fees will be waived. To book, simply create separate appointments for each or add your additional vehicle and the corresponding package and/or services of choice in the "Additional Comments/Requests" section. We will finalize them collectively when your appointment details have been confirmed. You are also welcome to request for the additional detail of another vehicle during a scheduled appointment as time and services allow.

Yes! However, due to the potential for water freezing and how the cold affects the agents used, we unfortunately cannot provide our entire service offering. To safely provide detailing during the winter, we limit services to our [ζ] ZETA and [α] ALPHA packages with the use of a rinseless wash. These can only be offered when temperatures are above subfreezing and/or when clients have sheltered vehicles. As a friendly reminder, throughout the winter we will not fully detail wheel barrels and fender liners to minimize scratches, damages, and additional fees. We aim to offer our full list of services year round once we open our garage location.

We aim to provide a seamless and convenient experience for our clients, offering multiple forms of payment. We accept cash and most major credit cards, including Visa, MasterCard, American Express, JCB, Discover, and UnionPay International. Transactions can also be made using Interac Debit or e-Transfer. Please note at this time that all card payments are subject to a 3% merchant fee. We appreciate your understanding and look forward to providing you an exemplary detailing experience.

Discounts are now offered as part of our Loyalty Rewards program. All clients will receive a rewards card and key fob after their first service with us, which can be presented with subsequent services for a 5% discount. Rewards can be doubled for a single booked service for each instance of the following: a rewards item is past to another customer as a referral, a social post is made that tags us and showcases our recent work, or a subscription is made to each of our social accounts including Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. As SIGMA continues to evolve to include a wider selection of services, locations, and merchandise, we foresee opportunities for further promotions to be available in the future.

We kindly ask to book your appointments at minimum a week in advance to allow us to schedule accordingly and to take into account alternate days should your appointment need to be deferred due to weather. In the event you must cancel and/or reschedule, please let us know as soon as possible. While there are no cancellation or rescheduling fees at this time, it would be greatly appreciated if we are aware of any changes at least 24hrs beforehand. We will contact you the day prior to your scheduled time for a final confirmation.

SIGMA Auto Detail is up to any challenge. However, for the safety of our detailers and clients, we do not accept requests that are considered insurable such as vehicles that have been affected by floods, fire, mold, etc. These jobs pose significant health risks without the necessary equipment and training to restore them effectively. Please contact your insurance company or visit your local detailer that are certified for these types of projects. We apologize for the inconvenience and hope you choose us once your vehicle is back to working order.

We do not offer formal education or training sessions at this time. Nevertheless, we enjoy interacting with our community and welcome your participation during scheduled sessions through our pilot project: GEMINI. By participating in GEMINI, you have access to our entire detailing repertoire and will work alongside a certified technician to complete a detailing service of your choosing. Through this format, we hope to inspire community members and enthusiasts in learning the art and process behind auto detailing while rewarding clients with a profound sense of accomplishment, new skills, and a fresh vehicle. While all our service offerings are discounted by up to 20% by participating in the program, please be aware further charges may still apply if additional time is required. To indicate your interest in GEMINI, please check off the corresponding box during online booking or reach out to us during your appointment confirmation. We look forward to tag-teaming your next detail!

Bug splatter, bird droppings, water spots, tar, and tree sap can all permanently effect the clear coat of your vehicle if left untreated which may ultimately lead to more expensive paint corrective steps for them to be removed. Bugs are generally comprised of several acidic compounds including formic acid, while bird droppings are high in uric acid content. Each are aggressive acids with a ~pH 2-4 which can cause substantial clear coat and even paint etching within the first 24hrs, especially when exposed to hot temperatures and sunlight that can serve to catalyze their chemical reactivity. In a similar fashion, water spots occur when mineral deposits are left to dry for extended periods of time on the paint surface as made worst by leaving a car outside in the sun. Overtime, the affinity of minerals proliferates the deposits left behind while continuously baking into the clear coat to eventually cause craters or pitting that not only leave behind unsightly spots but also a significant reduction in paint gloss and clarity and eventual failure of the layer itself. Lastly, tar and tree sap are not acidic like bug guts and bird droppings and do not leave behind deposits like what occurs with water spots. However both, when they fully cure, act similar to ambers and resins which condense and can put stress on the paint to crack its finish. Tar on its own also comprise of natural solvents that can migrate and permanently stain the paint surface if left untreated. To remove bug splatter, bird droppings, and tar, a dedicated alkaline cleaner can be used to neutralize and breakdown these contaminants as they can be stubborn to remove when hardened. Some of these cleaners can also be applied to tree sap but in some instances may need a few drops of hand sanitizer or a cotton ball lightly soaked in isopropyl rubbing alcohol to dwell on the affected area before removal. These are relatively safe for your clear coat as they flash easily unlike acetone in paint thinners. To remove water spots, use a 1:1 water vinegar solution as the mild acid can readily dissolve mineral deposits similar to removing salt stains on carpets and footwear. For each of these solutions, try to dab initially to break down and remove as much as possible before wiping to avoid spread over the paintwork or cracking the finish. If these solutions do not work for you or you have concerns removing these contaminants yourself, feel free to contact us.

The contact/rinseless options available for our [ζ] ZETA and [α] ALPHA maintenance packages use biodegradable pH-neutral products and are derived almost entirely from organic ingredients such as sugar and soy that are free from harsh sodium and lauryl sulfate derivatives found in many shampoo products. They are safe to use on any existing protection including sealants, waxes, and coatings. All purpose cleaners (APCs) and brake dust/iron removers used during wheel cleanings are also biodegradable, contain zero volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and are acid-free. More aggressive cleaners are used for the decontamination washes featured in our [Σ] SIGMA, [Σ.V] SIGMA..V, and [Σ.X] SIGMA.X packages. They are intended to strip existing protection for a fresh application. However, they will not remove nano-ceramic coatings as they are highly chemical resistant and therefore the agents used can instead rejuvenate their properties. We use a combination of APC and a pH-neutral blend of acidic and alkaline soaps that are phosphate free, water soluble, and readily inactivated when oxidized. While these chemicals are not as readily biodegradable like those seen in our maintenance packages, they are environmentally safe when handled with care and as such, we do our best to avoid immediate runoff from entering storm drains and large bodies of water.

Pre-Wash – Precedes the main wash steps involved when cleaning a vehicle. A surfactant such as a rinseless wash, all-purpose cleaner (APC), and/or snow foam are applied to encapsulate dirt and prevent contaminants from being further embedded into the clear coat or protective coating when using a pressure washer to rinse or when washing by hand. Contact Wash – Also known as hand washing or the "2-Bucket Method". This is the primary means of removing dirt and debris from the surface of a vehicle aside from the use of a pressure washer. Using a dedicated wash bucket filled with soap and water, a vehicle is cleaned from top to bottom one section at a time using a series of passes with either a sponge, wash mitt, or microfiber towels. Between sections, a separate rinse bucket is used to clean out the wash media of choice before using the wash bucket to make another pass. Both buckets often have grit guards to ensure any contaminants picked up from the contact wash are pulled to the bottom, preventing them from being suspended in solution and remaining on the wash media to be reintroduced onto the vehicle. This step is followed by a rinse to ensure any residual soaps and/or dirt are washed away from the surface. Rinseless Wash – A variation of the contact wash that uses a polymer surfactant rather than a traditional soap. Polymer surfactants have much higher lubricity and often possess zwitterionic (positive and negative charge) properties that allows encapsulation like a soap in the form of a polymer bubble. Polymer bubbles remain intact and suspended from a surface when dry and readily reactivated with water, eliminating the need for rinsing after application. Once diluted, such as when being reintroduced to a wash bucket comprising water and the rinseless solution, these bubbles disperse and the difference in positive and negative charges release dirt to the bottom. These properties make the use of a rinse bucket and grit guards optional and provides a slicker surface when wiping to prevent the likelihood of scratches during both the wash and dry stages. Since a rinse bucket and the rinsing step are not required, much less water is used making rinseless wash a more eco-friendly alternative and much more accessible for those who have water restrictions in their area.

Rinseless washes are a new innovation that have better capabilities than traditional soaps/detergents. Soaps are anionic surfactants that form micelles with hydrophilic and hydrophobic ends with an existing negative charge. This structure allows for the encapsulation of dirts and oils while the negative charge prevents adhesion to the vehicle allowing it to run-off in the presence of water. Rinseless washes are zwitterionic polymers that, in principle behave very similarly, creating a micellular like bubble that both attracts and traps dirt due to its positive and negative charges. Unlike micelles in soaps, it continues to maintain its structure when dry, keeping contaminants encapsulated until reactivated with water. Not only does this prevent contaminants from embedding into the clear coat itself, but polymers can be further infused with additional protectants like synthetic waxes, ceramics, and graphene. Most rinseless washes, by default, are engineered to have additional lubricity. Due to this addition amongst its other advantageous properties, rinseless washes are much safer for a variety of wash applications both mechanical contact washing and pressure washing alike. However, they are more suitable for lighter dust and debris as heavy mineral deposits or physical dirt such as soil/mud require a multi step approach to decontaminate by comparison.

Steam is one of the best environmentally friendly options when it comes to detailing, consuming the least amount of water and chemicals. However, it is a much more technical process and generally requires commercial grade systems, both of which are not as favourable to us as detailers that are focused on teaching and connecting with our clients who may do their own details at home. Because steam cleaners typically operate between 80-120°C, continuous heat increases the likelihood of expanding clear coat damaged areas, stripping existing protection like waxes, and delaminating paint protection films while impacting the effectiveness of cleaning agents and bonding of protectants. In combination with pressure and the 30° angle required for safe use, steam cleaning has more tendency, on dirtier vehicles, to leave webbed or star shaped scratches which are more difficult to correct. The same is true if the reservoir is not well maintained as water calcification and impurities can have a similar effect. There are also concerns regarding safety for the user since steaming generates aerosols. With these in mind, we at SIGMA Auto Detail have found rinseless washing to balance eco friendliness with paint preservation and health safety as they are not only organic but also small amount of water at ~3 gallons without the scratching and aerosol risks. For dirty vehicles, however, we still recommend and adopt pressure washing and contact washes as both steam and rinseless options are not well suited for such applications, even when used in combination to mitigate risks. These conventional methods are much more versatile in application and are tools and techniques that are more akin to what consumers have access to from an education perspective.

Engine bay detailing involves cleaning underneath the hood and all surface areas surrounding the engine. While the engine bay comprises of several sensitive components, with the correct tools and techniques, it is a safe and desirable practice that can preserve the life of your vehicle. Large buildup of oils, dirt, and debris overtime will cause overheating and in combination with moisture, can stress vital engine components. Most notably, the rubbers and thermoplastics used may become brittle and crack while engine components that are commonly made with iron base alloys are susceptible to rust and can also fail. With this in mind, it is important to detail the engine bay every so often especially with the type of climate we observe in the GTA. Engine bay detailing follows a similar workflow across establishments. Below is an outline how we at SIGMA perform this type of detail to provide insight and confidence so you as a customer know exactly the steps taken to ensure your engine will continue to run smoothly and safely once completed. The engine bay is addressed at the very beginning of an exterior detail and is initially inspected to determine components that may be water sensitive. This includes the air intake, alternator, sensors, and exposed electrical wiring and terminals. The engine bay is then lightly dusted using a combination of soft brushes and a blower to remove the majority of loose dirt. Components that are deemed sensitive are then covered using both plastic bags and microfiber towels. The engine cover, if present, will not be removed at this stage to avoid flooding spark plugs. A pressure washer is used at low pressures of 800-1000PSI with a 40° tip to gently and rinse from top to bottom. We use the pressure washer from a side angle at a few feet distance to ensure high pressure water is not being directly flooded into sensitive areas. A biodegradable and acid-free all purpose cleaner (APC) is foam sprayed on the underside of the hood as well as on the areas surrounding the engine and is left briefly to dwell and encapsulate dirt, grease, and oils. A variety of soft bristled brushes are used to agitate the APC. Covered components are re-examined to ensure they remain water tight. The rinsing step is repeated to remove the APC and any remaining contaminants. If by customer request they would like areas underneath the engine bay cover to be cleaned as well, the cover is removed for a full cleaning. Meanwhile, any previously covered components are addressed using a small brush sprayed with APC together with a damp microfiber towel for precision touchups. Steam may be employed as well if any dirt and oils cannot be removed by hand. The engine bay is then air dried using a blower to remove any standing water. The engine bay cover is replaced and an engine safe dressing that is temperature resistant to 250°C is spray on all components to coalesce and self-level with any remaining moisture. The hood is closed and the rest of the detail is completed. Once all other detailing items have been performed, the vehicle is started to flash off any potential moisture that may still be present. A final inspection takes place to ensure the vehicle is safe to drive before its released back to the customer. Detailing the engine bay of an electric vehicle (EV) follows a similar process. More often than not they are much cleaner and can be easily maintained using an appropriate cleaner and a damp microfiber towel and/or steamer. Should a rinse be necessary, engine bay components in EVs are typically well sealed with a minimum rating IP 65/66, wherein they are protected against fine particulates like dust and can withstand jets of water from any direction without harm for several minutes at a time. Regardless of engine type, we will always choose the safest detailing method best suited to meet the conditions of the vehicle.

An All Purpose Cleaner (APC) is a versatile cleaning solution that can be used on a variety of surfaces, including vehicle interiors and exteriors. It is designed to remove dirt, grime, and other contaminants without damaging the surface being cleaned. APCs typically have a pH-neutral or mildly alkaline formulation that makes them safe to use on delicate surfaces like leather, vinyl, and plastic. They are also more readily released into the environment making them a much more eco-friendly alternative compared to other auto detailing solutions. On the other hand, a Degreaser is a powerful cleaning solution that is specifically designed to break down and remove grease and oil from surfaces. It is commonly used on engine bays, wheels, and other areas that are prone to accumulating grease and oil. Degreasers are typically strong alkaline solutions that contain natural solvents that are citrus based to aid in breaking down organic oils. However these properties can cause damage to delicate surfaces if not used properly and often requires proper handling and care to minimize contact with skin. In summary, APCs are a great all-around cleaner that can be used on a variety of surfaces, while Degreasers are a powerful solution that should only be used sparingly for areas that can handle their intensity such as on metals and alloys. It's important to choose the right cleaning solution for the job to ensure that your vehicle stays clean and damage-free. We recommend using dedicated cleaners when possible, especially for interiors such as around the instrument and infotainment clusters as both APCs and Degreasers can strip the graphics and lettering on these areas which can present safety concerns. Many brands often label their products as APC Degreasers or Citrus Based APCs which can make it difficult to discern their proper use. Always read the label carefully and follow the instructions when using these types of products for your own vehicle, especially if dilutions are required. When in doubt, test on an inconspicuous area and ensure the product does not dry or dwell on the surface for extended periods of time.

Yes, however expect longer service times as convertible tops are often made from fabric or vinyl that necessitates special care when detailing. Ample time is required for them to be completely dry to prevent mildew build-up when stowed and for the application of any UV/waterproofing protectants to be properly bonded to the surface.

Modern wing mirrors, including powered variants, can be safely pulled towards or away from its normal set position. During a car wash or detail, mirrors may be manipulated for a more thorough cleaning, drying, dressing and/or polishing around this area and the side pillar. At SIGMA Auto Detail you may see us perform this practice if we have identified these areas to be excessively dirty or they are retaining moisture after a detail which is effecting paint protection or correction applications. We will reset the mirrors before releasing the vehicle back to you. If you ever have difficulties operating your powered side mirror, the motor is most likely not set properly. Manually rest the mirror to its normal position by hand then unlock/lock the doors once or twice or use the dedicated fold button to resynchronize - an audible click is usually heard when the motor is properly re-engaged. We recommend folding and protecting your mirrors either manually or by using the dedicated button whenever you go through an automated car wash. Vehicles models earlier than the year 2000 will want to avoid this practice as components and plastics are likely more brittle and may snap when regularly folded in either direction.

Detailing requires an organized and thorough understanding of the products, tools, and technique used to avoid causing scratching and swirls. We at SIGMA Auto Detail adopt the following tips in our own practices and hope it can provide insight on how to better care for your own vehicle at home. Pre-Wash/Rinse – If you are outdoors, wash your car either early in the morning or late afternoon when the sun is at its lowest, starting with a rinse and/or snow foam when the surface is cool. When possible use softened water through the use of a water softener or add a rinseless wash to your solutions. By minimizing both heat and the minerals suspended, you can reduce the chances of water spotting and dragging contaminants across the paint surface when washing and drying. Foam from bottom to top to improve layering and increase dwelling time and rinse from top to bottom to allow contaminants to be flushed down and away from the cleanest to dirtiest sections of the vehicle. Wash – When using a pressure washer, inspect the paint prior to ensure no further damage will be caused with use. Be mindful of the PSI, nozzle angle, and distance maintained. We recommend using approximately 800-1200 PSI with a 40° fan at 2-4 ft for most jobs to minimize pressure on contact. You can opt to use alternative orifice sizes such as a 25° and a turbo nozzle for more cleaning power like when cleaning wheels, fender wells, and the undercarriage, but increase your distance away from the vehicle when pressure washing the paint to avoid damage. Using a pre-wash soap to blanket the vehicle beforehand is an excellent way to encapsulate the majority of contaminants and prevent them from being driven further into the clear coat during pressure washing. If using the traditional bucket wash method, use 2-3 buckets with grit guards that are dedicated for washing, rinsing, and wheels/tires. Separate buckets, in combination with grit guards, will prevent cross contamination of your wash media, be it sponges, mitts, or microfiber towels, and ensure debris are not being reintroduced onto the paint surface. Wash a panel at a time from top to bottom and in-between, rinse your wash media in your dedicated bucket containing water before resoaking in your wash bucket and reintroducing soap to the surface. Apply minimal pressure and wash in straight horizontal motions rather than concentric circles to mimic your vehicle's air curtain to best remove contaminants from existing scratches and prevent swirling. Dry – This is the most sensitive step to scratches and swirls as minimal lubrication exists during this stage to act as a buffer between the paint surface and dry media of choice. The best is to air dry using a dedicated air canon or a leaf blower when possible and not to let standing water dry naturally to avoid water spotting. You may also choose to towel dry, in which case, a proper clean microfiber towel is a must as it is the softest absorbent material available. Choose microfibers that are both tagless and edgeless as these can scratch the surface, and pick a 70:30 polyester:polyamide blend with a longer pile and larger GSM surface area to maximize absorbency. Adopt the same straight line, top to bottom, and low pressure strokes used during the wash step to prevent scratching and swirling of mineral deposits. You can go across multiple panels and leave the lower sections for your final pass before flipping or switching towels to likewise prevent any remaining contaminants from being reintroduced. To minimize your number of drying towels, start with the doors and side panels and leave the wettest sections like the roof and hood last. Protect – When applying a sealant or wax of choice which are commonly made available in spray formats, spray once on the panel surface and once on your application towel or follow as directed on the label. Use the same wiping practices adopted during the drying stage and work a panel at a time. You may choose the same type of microfiber towel from the drying step or select a more appropriate 80:20 polyester:polyamide blend which is more plush and improves the spreading/buffing of products. Once you complete an application on a section, wait for it to flash/haze before buffing with a second clean microfiber towel or flip and fold your initial towel to a clean/dry side. You may buff with concentric circles for more even and uniform coverage at this time as you now have a barrier protecting the clear coat. Repeat this process while using a new side or new towel for each panel. Make your way around the vehicle and congratulations - you have completed a scratch/swirl free exterior detail with maximum gloss/shine! *Bonus Winter Tips* – When removing snow from your vehicle during the winter months, avoid using bristle snow brushes as they become brittle over multiple seasons and will scratch. Instead wrap the head with microfiber towel as held with an elastic band or choose a variant that has a silicone or foam head. Should you need to use an ice scraper, only do so on glass surfaces as this will introduce deep gouges on the clear coat. Do not pour hot water to de-ice your vehicle, the sudden temperature shock will constrict and crack paint surfaces or even shatter windshields and glass. Apply a protectant prior to the winter season to reduce snow/ice accumulation and the need for aggressive brushing/scraping as well as to prevent clear coat etching due to road salts. Ensure your vehicle is completely decontaminated during the following spring season to minimize the implications of road salt on paint.

Water spots occur when mineral deposits are left on your car's surface after the water evaporates. They are a common issue that car owners face, especially when living in areas with both high precipitation and hard water like the GTHA which rains over a third of the time annually with local waters averaging 6-7gpg due to the high levels of calcium, magnesium, strontium, iron, barium, and manganese. There are three different stages of water spotting: spotting, scaling, and etching. Spotting – This is the the initial stage, where water droplets dry on your car's surface and leave behind mineral deposits. These water spots are relatively easy to remove with a simple wash and dry, or by using a rinseless wash or quick detail spray with a microfiber towel to remove deposits. Scaling – If your vehicle continues to experience multiple cycles of hard water exposure and evaporation while existing water water spots are present on the surface, this can continue to encourage further accumulation of mineral deposits and leave behind a crusty residue after bonding to the clear coat surface. This is known as scaling and can be removed with a a mild acid-based cleaner, such as solution of equal parts water and vinegar or a dedicated water spot remover, in combination with a mild abrasive such as a clay bar or polish. Etching – The most severe stage of water spotting is etching. This occurs when scaling is accelerated by moisture and UV photooxidation, causing corrosion of the car's paint or clear coat leading to pitting and irreversible damage. Etching appears as a dull, cloudy spot on the surface of the car and can only be resolved by removing the affected layers by extensive compounding and polishing or by wet sanding. In severe cases, minerals erode through the paint as well requiring much more expensive bodywork and/or panel replacements should rusting become involved. To prevent water spots, it's important to wash and dry your vehicle vehicle during the coolest times of day, such as the early morning and late afternoon in the summer, or to use softened or distilled water when rinsing. Application of a hydrophobic sealant, wax, or ceramic coating can also be beneficial in minimizing standing water on the vehicle while adding an additional layer of protection. If you do notice water spotting on your car, it's best to address it as soon as possible to prevent it from getting worse. Should water spots persist, consult a professional detailing service as it can be a sign of scaling/etching which will require paint decontamination or further enhancement/correction to safely remove.

There are two types of bird droppings, light and dark, with the latter being caused by the ingestion of berries which consequently discolours the paint surface. These are often harmless and will disappear overtime with UV exposure without the need for further chemical treatment or paint correction.

Whenever you apply your brakes, friction from the brake pads and rotors emit metal fragments commonly known as brake dust. Most rotors are made of cast iron and such fragments when exposed to air and moisture will oxidize overtime leading to rust. While these particulates are mostly localized to your rims, the air flow surrounding the vehicle when driving will naturally carry and accumulate brake dust in areas behind your wheels, especially the front driver and passenger side doors as well as your rear fender. Likewise, such dust remains suspended in the air for short periods of time and can be transferred between vehicles in high urban areas. Light coloured cars, predominantly white and silver bases, have a higher change of forming rust spots due to lower surface temperatures and less ability to flash off moisture, especially during the winter months. Rust, if left untreated, will etch into the main substrate of your vehicles frame and can accelerate rapidly leading to expensive repairs and compromise your safety. For these reasons, it is important to decontaminate your vehicle every so often. We recommend at minimum twice a year and even more frequently for vehicles with white or silver base paint.

Removing streak marks from chrome trim can indeed be challenging, even with the right equipment, products, and techniques. At SIGMA Auto Detail, we recommend using a non-ammonia based cleaner that is safe for both glass and tinted surfaces on vehicles. These types of solutions are effective in giving your chrome a streak-free, lustrous shine without requiring aggressive agitation that can mar the trim. For the best result, make sure to use a clean, soft microfiber cloth to apply and buff the cleaner similar to applying a paint sealant to ensure you achieve a high-quality finish.

Road paint is designed to withstand the elements and therefore can be extremely difficult to remove. A combination of pressure washing, agitation, tar removers, and paint thinners are often required which can be a lengthy process. While we at SIGMA Auto Detail are more than happy to restore your fender liners, we often recommend to instead visit your local dealership or parts shop to find a replacement – it is often significantly cheaper, even after labour and installation fees, and is very simple to reinstall at home with the use of a car jack, tire iron, and screw driver to further save costs.

Dried concrete can be a challenge to remove. Fortunately, there are effective and eco-friendly methods to tackle this issue without damaging your car's paint. One proven approach is using a sugar and water solution. By creating a paste and allowing it to sit on the concrete for 30 minutes to 1 hour, the sugar will soften the concrete and make it easier to remove without harsh scraping that could damage your car’s finish. Alternatively, dedicated biodegradable removers like Sakrete are designed to safely and effectively break down concrete residues. We caution the use of other commercial concrete removers containing muriatic acid as the extreme low pH can strip paint if left to dwell too long or if not properly neutralized. Regardless of method, consider giving your vehicle a proper decontamination wash and clay once all concrete traces are removed to avoid further damage from any fine particulates or agents left on the surface.

Antiozonants are added to rubbers to prevent premature drying and cracking as a result of oxidation. Tire browning, or "blooming", occurs when these additives are released to the surface or sidewalls of the tire, leaving a brown residue when continuously exposed to oxygen. This process often takes several years, but can be accelerated with regular wear and UV exposure. To prevent blooming, it is important to clean and protect your tires. We commonly use all-purpose cleaners (APCs) or wheel specific cleaners to clean and restore rubbers while applying tire shine comprising of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) or ceramic/graphene to add UV and hydrophobic protection. Rubber trims and seals can also suffer from blooming and it is therefore good practice to clean and protect these areas in a similar fashion. Once rubbers begin to bloom, you may find they regularly turn brown even after taking the necessary maintenance steps. This is normal with aged rubbers and unfortunately cannot be reversed entirely, but routine maintenance will slow its progression and the frequency it resurfaces.

At SIGMA Auto Detail, our top priority is the safety of our clients. We understand that tire dressings can enhance the appearance of both cars and motorcycles and prolong the lifespan of wheels from UV photooxidation. However, due to differing tire designs and cornering physics, we only offer tire dressing for cars. Car treads are designed to remain planted during a turn, whereas motorcycle wheels are more curved and can involve the face of the wheel during sharp turns which may lose traction when a dressing is applied. We want to ensure that our clients are safe on the road, which is why we have made this decision.

We recommend relubricating your bike chain after it has been detailed. It is important to apply new lubricant to ensure smooth operation and prevent rust or corrosion. While our detailing process is gentle and will not damage your chain, it does clean away any dirt, grime, and may remove any existing lubrication. Our [μ] Mu package generally uses pH-neutral solutions and mild alkaline APCs which should not dramatically affect their properties and performance. Conversely, our [μ.2] Mu.2 package is designed to completely strip and restore the entire bike surface, involving stronger alkaline solutions and degreasers which will remove any existing lubrication. For this service we often will opt to relubricate the chain before releasing the bike back to our customers. Should you own a preferred product or brand of chain lubricant, you are welcome to give it to us for application.

No. Generally, light dust and debris are found between and underneath seats in most vehicles while only some spot treatments are required for spills and winter salt runoff from floor mats/liners. While seat removal may be the the most efficient way to clean these areas, doing so can can strip the retaining bolts and compromise airbags with disconnection. We believe in prioritizing your safety and taking the extra time to work around the seats to achieve similar quality results. Our detailers are highly trained to clean around and under the seats, as well as in between the crevices to ensure a thorough cleaning job. We guarantee that your interior will look, feel, and smell like new after our detailing service without the need for the seats to be removed.

Any items found in your vehicle during an interior detail will be temporarily removed and set aside. Once the detail is complete they will be returned to the trunk as organized by the locations they were originally found unless specified. Please keep in mind that leaving items in your vehicle may take additional time outside the original service window which can incur additional fees. We recommend having most if not all your belongings removed prior to a detail to offer the most flexibility with regards to time and cost.

We at SIGMA Auto Detail also love our furry friends and understand how their hair can get absolutely everywhere. Pet hair can be a challenge to remove, similar to when it gets stuck to your clothes and carpets, but it does not impact the quality detail you will receive. However, expect interior detailing times to take longer as all pet hair must be initially brushed to loosen them from the surface prior to a complete blow-out and vacuum. This may incur additional fees based on additional time spent outside the service estimate, but we do not charge a specific fee for pet hair alone - it's not their fault that they shed.

Removing pet hair can be quite difficult, particularly from carpets, fabrics, and upholstery. This challenge is often caused by static electricity, which makes pet hair cling to surfaces, making it hard to vacuum. One effective solution is to use paint gloss or a spray sealant. A light mist can help loosen the hair from fibers, allowing you to easily gather it with a dedicated fur brush or a rubber bristle brush. Afterward, you can vacuum the area as normal, using a specialized pet hair attachment for better results. If hair remains stubborn, packing tape, adhesive lint rollers, or automotive carpet film can be helpful as well. It’s best to do this in a closed space or outdoors with minimal wind, ensuring all doors and hatches are closed to keep the area contained while you clean.

Steam cleaning uses high-temperature steam to neutralize, loosen, and lift dirt, grime, and stains from the surfaces. It is best suited as a means of sanitization as heated vapour can penetrate into the pores of leather, vinyl, fabrics, upholstery, rubbers, and plastics to kill bacteria and evaporate embedded dirt. It is a gentle and eco-friendly cleaning method that doesn't require harsh chemicals. Steam cleaning is effective in removing surface-level dirt and bacteria, but it may not be suitable for deep stains, pet hair, or odours. Carpet extraction, on the other hand, is a more powerful and thorough method of cleaning car carpets and fabrics. It involves prior application and agitation of a cleaning agent followed by the simultaneous flushing and vacuuming of embedded dirt and stains. Carpet extraction is effective in removing deep stains, pet hair, and odours. However, it may leave behind excess moisture which can cause rewicking, introducing further staining or molding if surfaces are not properly neutralized and dried. Steam cleaning and carpet extraction are featured in our [Σ.X] SIGMA.X and [Σ.V] SIGMA.V packages, serving different purposes in cleaning and/or in the preparation of surfaces for additional treatment. As a general rule of thumb, carpet extraction is best for fabric surfaces to tackle embedded dirt and stains, while steam cleaning is most suited for sanitizing all other surfaces. Should you be choosing between the two specifically for headliners, we instead recommend our [Σ] SIGMA package for vortex extraction which instead uses a cleaning agent agitated by compressed air and atomized water. This method effectively achieves the results of both steam cleaning and carpet extraction without concerns of damage and sagging by excess heat or suction.

Stains on fabrics and carpets can reappear after spot cleaning due to a phenomenon known as wicking. Wicking occurs when a stain that has soaked deep into the fibers re-emerges as it dries. This happens for a number of reasons: Residual Stains: Sometimes, stains penetrate beyond the fibers themselves and into the backing underneath. When cleaned, solutions used may not reach these deep-seated stains, allowing stains to resurface as fabrics or carpets dry. Incomplete Cleaning: In some cases, the cleaning process may not fully remove the stain. This could happen if the cleaning solution isn't left on the stain long enough, if the cleaning equipment isn't powerful enough to extract all the stain-causing substances, or if the agents used are not appropriate for the type of stain involved. Reactive Stains: Some stains, particularly those caused by substances with high pH levels, may seem to disappear initially after cleaning but then reappear as the carpet dries. This happens because the cleaning process temporarily neutralizes the stain, but as the carpet dries and the pH levels change, the stain reappears. Capillary Action: As the carpet dries, any remaining moisture can carry the stain particles from deeper layers of the carpet to the surface through capillary action, causing the stain to reappear. Most stains you'll find in a vehicle are organic involving proteins (ex. dairy products and bodily fluids), tannins (ex. coffee and teas), or dyes (ex. fruits/vegetables, ink, and clothing), which are best treated using enzyme-based cleaning agents. Likewise, careful applications of degreaser should be used for oil-based stains (ex. engine/cooking oil, grease, and lotions), while vinegar is an excellent solution to breakdown salt stains. To prevent wicking, we recommend using your solution of choice and liberally applying it to fully wet the stain itself. Allow the solution to dwell for 1-2 minutes and ensure the product does not dry. Agitate the soaked stain using a soft-bristle brush or a drill brush to gently lift the stain using minimal pressure to avoid pressing the stain and any chemicals further into the material. Once the stain has been broken down, neutralize the stain and the cleaning agent used with a light application of hydrogen peroxide. Immediately extract and dry the affected area using a carpet extractor, air compressor, and/or microfiber towels. Repeat the process as necessary until the stain has been improved or fully removed. Complete the interior detailing step with the vehicle set to idle with A/C recirculation for 5-10 minutes to eliminate any remaining moisture.

All glass related products used at SIGMA Auto Detail are ammonia free and safe to use on both exterior and interior glass. They are highly effective at removing dirt, oils, and contaminants and can be utilized in direct sunlight without the risks of streaking, discoloring, and peeling when applied to window tints and protective films on tech screens. In the event of an overspray, our selected products do not effect water repellent paint and glass coatings and are also safe on trims, rubber seals, and plastics that surround your windshield and windows.

Interior plastics may continue to show scuffs and fading due to UV damage and regular use, especially door sill guards and lower section door panels. Carpets can also fade overtime with UV exposure. These issues are more prominent for black interior vehicles and vehicles that are not regularly parked under shelter due to constant exposure and higher rates of absorption. While UV persists year round, it is most prominent during the summer months and is the most optimal time to have your interior UV protected. We unfortunately cannot fully restore plastics and carpets once they begin to fade. However, our included UV protection in our [α] ALPHA and [Σ] SIGMA packages during seasonal maintenance will help darken and rehydrate plastics while preventing further aging and likelihood of cracking and peeling, with similar protection also available for carpets, fabrics, and upholstery in our [Σ.V] SIGMA.V and [Σ.X] SIGMA.X packages.

Cigarette smoke requires extensive cleaning, deionization via an ozone machine, and the replacement of your cabin air filter. We do not use ozone when detailing vehicles as it poses a health risk to our operators. We recommend visiting other detailers who are better equipped to offer this service. However, you are still welcome to reach out or book an appointment with us should you be interested in an interior detail. Please be mindful that without the use of ozone machine we will not be able to remove cigarette odours entirely but we can make significant improvements.

Taking care of your microfiber towels is crucial to maintain their effectiveness and longevity. We recommend the following best practices to extend the life of your towels and maintain their performance for optimal results: Wash Before First Use: Before using your microfiber towels for the first time, it's a good idea to wash them. This helps to remove any manufacturing residues and ensures optimal performance. Separate Towels by Use: Keep different microfiber towels for specific tasks, such as drying, polishing, or interior cleaning. This helps prevent cross-contamination of products and ensures that each towel is used for its designated purpose. Wash Separately: Wash microfiber towels separately from other fabrics, especially cotton, as lint from cotton can cling to microfiber and affect its performance. Group together towels of similar use types, colours, and weaves to further prevent cross-contamination, bleeding, and pilling respectively. Use a Gentle Cycle: When washing microfiber towels, use a gentle cycle to prevent excessive agitation that can damage the delicate fibers. Avoid Fabric Softeners and Bleach: Fabric softeners can leave a residue on microfiber towels, reducing their absorbency. Similarly, bleach can break down the fibers. Use a dedicated microfiber detergent when possible. A mild clear detergent without additives, fragrances, or softeners is also a suitable option. Avoid High Heat: High heat can damage microfiber. Dry your towels on a low heat setting or allow them to air dry. Excessive heat can cause the fibers to melt or break down, reducing their effectiveness. No Fabric Softener in the Dryer: Just like in the washing machine, avoid using fabric softener sheets in the dryer, as they can leave a coating on the microfiber. Inspect for Debris: Before each use, inspect your microfiber towels for any debris, dirt, or contaminants. If you find any, wash them thoroughly before using them again. Fold, Don't Ball: When storing your microfiber towels, fold them neatly instead of balling them up. This helps to maintain their shape and ensures they are ready for use without wrinkles or creases. Replace When Necessary: Microfiber towels have a lifespan, and their effectiveness can diminish over time. If you notice a decline in performance, it may be time to replace them.

Paint correction, or polishing, is the process of removing surface scratches and imperfections found in the vehicle's clear coat. The clear coat layer of your vehicle's paint finish is not a sacrificial layer like added sealants, waxes, and coatings. Each manufacture determines how much clear coat is used to protect the base colour from UV rays, oxidation, and damage from contaminants or abrasives. Clear coat is a relatively thin layer at about 1.5-2 mils (35-50 microns) and degrades approximately 2-3 microns a year with proper maintenance during its intended 15 year lifecycle. To maintain the finish and this rate of oxidation, specialized rotary, orbital, or dual-action machines are typically used in combination with a series of different polishing pads and compounds at varying rotational speeds to achieve varying levels of cut. Polishing removes microscopic layers in multiple stages until imperfections are mostly corrected and the surface is smooth, 3-10 microns per session depending on the level of correction. Because layers of clear coat are removed each time a correction is performed, a conservative approach must be taken to avoid delamination and damaging the actual base paint underneath. At SIGMA Auto Detail we recommend polishing 1-2 times a year during spring and fall as featured in our [Σ.V/W] SIGMA.V/W packages and performing more aggressive corrective steps as seen in our [Σ.X] SIGMA.X package only as needed when polishing is no longer sufficient in removing existing scratches and imperfections. Each requires an assessment to determine what is most optimal to both your expectations and the condition of your vehicle. The substrate and base coat combined are close to 3 mils (75 microns) in thickness. If during the assessment we deem the average per panel is too close to this value, you will be notified in which we will strictly perform an enhancement as seen in [Σ.V/W] SIGMA.V/W or reserve the right to refuse the service all-together. We advise discussing the eligibility for a future paint correction with your detailer during your next appointment so that a quick inspection can be performed to determine suitable options.

No, it is not recommended to polish matte paint. Matte vehicles have a unique clear coat that is designed to have a speckled texture to alter its light refractive properties. Polishing the surface will smooth it out and adopt a traditional gloss and slickness akin to traditional clear coat treatments, which will ruin the matte finish. Instead, it is advised to use a detailing spray, sealant, or coating specifically designed for matte paint to protect and maintain its unique texture and finish. At SIGMA Auto Detail, our more premium [Σ.X] SIGMA.X and [Σ.V] SIGMA.V packages typically include paint correction services for the average vehicle. Should you own a vehicle with a matte finish and are interested in these packages, please contact us so that we may offer solutions that best preserve this type of paintwork.

Imperfections in the clear coat dulls the paint finish of your vehicle as it alters how light is reflected off the surface. Failure of this layer also exposes the base paint and substrate to the elements which can lead to rapid oxidation and rusting. It is important to correct imperfections as early as possible to maintain the integrity of the clear coat while restoring gloss. Paint imperfections can fall under many categories, each requiring different levels of care to be properly corrected. Scratches & Swirls – Light abrasive markings that appear as singular lines (scratches) or concentric circles (swirls). These are more commonly caused by contaminants that are dragged across the surface of the paint during the wash and dry steps from excessive pressure and lack of lubrication. Grazing objects and rough materials also have a tendency to form these kind of imperfections. The use of snow brushes with bristles during the winter are another common culprit. Scratches and swirls are relatively straightforward to remove with minimal use of abrasive pads and polishes as any defects are strictly on the surface. Between the two, swirls are more labour intensive as they are essentially multi-angle scratch lines and therefore require multiple passes in different directions to fully correct. Marring – Also known as heavy deep scratches or gouges usually a consequence of sharp objects such as tree branches, keys, and ice scrapers. A significant portion of the clear coat is involved and requires a multi-stage approach with multiple polishing pad and compound variants to appropriately level. They often cannot be completely corrected as the surrounding areas of clear coat must be taken into account to ensure a uniform finish without compromising the layer itself. Marr lines may also be deep enough to effect the base paint and substrate, necessitating additional steps of paint touchup by reapplying a primer, paint, and clear coat to the affected area prior to paint correction by polishing. Haze & Holograms – These are polishing induced imperfections due to poor technique or improperly maintained equipment. Haze, or micro-marring, occurs during the refinement stage of paint correction when a machine polisher is using too low of a rotational speed or is moved across the surface too quickly with a polishing pad and/or polish that may cut too aggressively. A dry or contaminated polishing pad that contains old polish residues may also cause micro-marring as well as an improperly decontaminated paint surface. The result is a polished surface with fine swirls throughout the finish that leaves behind a hazed appearance despite appearing uniformly smooth from afar. Holograms are more difficult to spot and require the correct lighting to identify as they appear below the clear coat surface as 3D trails. They often occur when a polisher is used aggressively at high speeds without proper lubrication or when used at an angle causing unequal contact pressure, leaving residual friction or burn marks as generated heat is unevenly distributed through the clear coat. Both haze and holograms can be rectified with standard paint correction steps but will require further layers of clear coat to be removed. Oxidation – Similar in appearance to hazes, but rather than micro-marring, are the result of clear coat aging from heat, UV degradation, and exposure to outdoor elements. Oxidation is not typically seen on a vehicle for several year into its lifecycle unless accelerated by leaving it regularly unsheltered or not washing and decontaminating the surface often. Oxidation in the early stages can be corrected with routine polishing but overtime will eventually bubble, flake, and peel requiring complete removal and reapplication for the affected panel. Hoods and roofs, which have the greatest surface to sunlight, or door handles, side mirrors, and edges, where clear coat is the thinnest, are common areas most effected by oxidation. While it is desirable as an owner to spot treat and completely remove scratches and swirls, it is important to remember that potential repeated defects in the same affected area will significantly increase the likelihood of clear coat failure which will necessitate an entire repainting of the panel. In addition, spot treatments will create pits and craters relative to the surrounding polished areas which will alter light reflection properties and how it is visually perceived, similar to a dent. This is why polishing is performed over a large surface area and is gradually blended rather than performed to tackle specific defects. Conversely, if blended to completely remove imperfections each time, the clear coat will not last long and overall will be more costly to professionally repair. For these reasons, we at SIGMA Auto Detail are a strong proponent of paint preservation rather than paint perfection to provide the greatest longevity to the clear coat of your vehicle while reducing the visibility of imperfections and restoring gloss.

You can often determine if a scratch can be corrected by hand or machine polishing/compounding in one of three ways: 1. Visual Inspection: Examine the scratch closely. Superficial scratches, which only affect the clear coat, can typically be removed or significantly diminished with a polish or compound. If the scratch appears to penetrate multiple layers of paint, it will likely require a more intensive repair with touch-up paint. 2. Water Test: Spray a little water on the scratched area. If the scratch temporarily disappears when wet, it indicates that it’s likely a superficial scratch affecting only the clear coat—one that polish or compound can potentially remove. 3. Fingernail or Credit Card Test: Gently run your fingernail or a credit card over the scratch. If it gets caught, the scratch is deeper and likely penetrates beyond the clear coat, which means a simple polish might not be effective. If you are still unsure whether or not the scratch in question is repairable, feel free to contact us. Provide an image and the cause of the scratch if it is known to you and we will get back to you with a recommendation or quote if applicable.

Aside from general wear given your vehicles age and use, the make of your vehicle does have an impact how the paint is corrected. Paints can be described as soft or hard, each posing pros and cons when it comes to polishing. Generally, German vehicles have hard paint and are more labour intensive to correct as they require more steps and aggressive polishing pads and compounds to refine. However, once corrected they are fairly easy to refine when performing subsequent polishes. In contrast, Japanese makes use soft paint which can be easily corrected using fewer steps and polishing products, but are incredibly technique sensitive and are susceptible to micro-marring or polisher induced scratching and swirls during refinement. American/British vehicles use paint that are an intermediate and as such are moderately difficult to correct and refine but overall are much more forgiving than the hard and soft paints seen in German and Japanese paints respectively. Regardless of car manufacturer and paint type, the care involved and attention to detail to safely perform a paint correction will not change. However, you can expect the time taken to achieve a proper finish may take longer for both German and Japanese vehicles for comparable scratches and imperfections due to the nature and sensitivity of the work involved. We recommend reaching out to us or speaking with your detailer during your next appointment should you be interested in a complete paint correction to discuss options and determine an estimate.

Clay barring and chemical decontamination are required steps once a vehicle is fully washed to ensure no contaminants are left behind prior to polishing. Clay, in conjunction with a lubricant, gently pulls large debris from the surface and embeds itself in the clay rather than the paint so it may be safely removed. Chemical decontamination dissolve smaller metals and minerals that may be present on the clear coat to soften edges and ensure safe removal, usually by rinsing or preceding the claying step. Any dirt and debris left on the surface during polishing will cause further damage to the clear coat, especially when using a machine that runs at thousands of RPMs which can induce deep swirl marks and embed contaminants deeper into the paint itself. Because clay and chemical decontamination are essential to a proper paint correction, any requests must include these exterior services and fees.

Clay bars are a traditional car detailing tool that is used to remove surface contaminants from your vehicle's paint. The clay bar is a soft, malleable bar that is rubbed across the paint surface, picking up any impurities that may be present. Frequent lubrication and kneading of clay bars are required in conjunction with precise technique to ensure impurities are not reintroduced to scratch the paintwork. Clay bars are typically a disposable solution and can only be used for a single session once contaminated. Perforated synthetic clay media (PSCMs), on the other hand, is a newer technology that has been developed to provide a more efficient, effective, and safer way to clean your car. It is made of a synthetic material that is designed to mimic the properties of natural clay, but is much more durable and can be used for a longer period of time, able to be reused with proper care for an upward of 50 vehicles. Often taking the form of a towel, mitt, or sponge, these variations provide a greater surface area to reduce pressure points while added perforations trap and remove contaminants more effectively and safely than a traditional clay bar, reducing the risks of marring or damage to the car's paint. Overall, both options are great for decontaminating your vehicle's finish and greatly improve the results achieved compared to chemical treatments or direct paint correction alone. At SIGMA Auto Detail, we find PSCMs to be our preferred choice as we appreciate the improved effectiveness and durability overall in conjunction with its ease of use.

If your perforated synthetic clay towel is leaving streaks and residue behind, it is likely due to insufficient lubrication or the use of a solvent-based lubricant. Proper lubrication is essential when using a clay towel, as it ensures that the towel glides smoothly over the surface without causing damage or leaving behind marks. We recommend using a high-quality, water-based lubricant specifically designed for clay towels. This will minimize friction and prolong the longevity of the clay. On the other hand, solvent-based agents such as adhesive and tar removers, can break down the materials in the clay towel and leave behind unwanted residues. For the best results, always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for both the clay towel and lubricant of choice, and ensure your clay towel is properly cleaned, dried, and stored between uses.

Polishers fall under 3 categories: rotary, random orbital, or dual-action. Rotary polishers spin a pad in a constant circular motion, creating the highest levels of cut due to increased friction with continuous uniform contact on a surface . Heat is rapidly generated with this form of polisher and is used cautiously to avoid holograms. Random orbital polishers differ by creating rotation from the momentum generated from high speed orbital motions rather than having a fixed and forced spin as seen in rotary variants. These orbits mimic the circular motions adopted during hand polishing and waxing, but are random as different combinations of stroke length, pad size, and speed can alter the pattern of motion. Random orbital polishers are one of the safest to use as they have very minimal risk of overheating a surface, but its momentum driven orbits can make corrections less predictable without understanding how certain combinations interact. Dual action polishers are one of the latest innovations used at SIGMA Auto Detail which combine the advantages of both rotary and random orbital polishers by using forced rotation to drive both rotating and orbital motions to constantly oscillate in varying elliptical orbits. This allows similar cutting ability and predictability to a rotary while maintaining user friendliness like a random orbital by reducing heat build up during polishing. Regardless of the type of machine polisher used, each can produce the same quality results when correcting paint with the right knowledge and experience to operate the tool safely. Pads are design specific to each of these types of polishers to ensure they behave appropriately relative to the forces and pressure applied. Common across pads are the materials used to determine the type of finish achieved and which can also be generalized into 5 options: foam, wool, microfiber, denim and velvet. Within these groups are multiple variations that differ in density to provide further refinement, but generally foam is best for polishing and waxing, wool and microfiber are better for cut and correction, while denim and velvet are most suited for removing orange peel from clear coat applications. The performance of each of these pads are further manipulated depending on the size of pad and abrasive used as well as the rotation and arm speed selected.

Polishes and compounds are liquid abrasives that contain fine particles which provide various levels of cuts on a surface, similar to sand paper. Grits for paint correction range from 1000-5000 - the higher the number the more fine the abrasive. Compounds are generally more suited for heavy cutting during paint correction and are usually around 1000-1500 grit. Polishes are selected for paint refinement and are more commonly used for light oxidation and defects, ranging from 2000-3000 grit. Liquid polish and compounds are favoured for speed, ease of use, and overall uniformity of application with proper machine polishing techniques. However, for more extensive correction in which significant layers of clear coat must be removed, wet sanding is employed instead using low 600-800 grit sand papers. Likewise, if prolonged polishing over a surface is required, a professional may opt to wet sand with 3000 grit trizact to avoid the likelihood of haze and holograms. When requesting for a paint correction with your detailer, discuss the options available relative to the condition of your paint to determine the level of correction necessary to preserve your paint finish relative to the desired outcome.

Polishes and waxes contain oils and other chemicals that are designed to bond with the surface of your car and create a protective layer. However, these chemicals can also react with plastic trim and cause staining or discoloration. This is especially true for older or more porous plastic materials that are more susceptible to absorbing these chemicals. To avoid this issue, it is important to use a specialized plastic trim protectant that is designed to repel these chemicals and during applications. Panel edges can also be taped to ensure hand or machine applications of polishes and/or waxes do not overextend onto plastic surfaces. Should polishes or waxes get onto plastic trims, prompt application of isopropyl alcohol or an APC is often sufficient to prevent staining. Older stains may also be removed using a mild abrasive such as an eraser, magic eraser, or water soluble trim safe compound. Alternatively when stains have been left to oxidize and cannot be properly removed, a trim restoration solution can be used to rejuvenate and redye the affected part.

Tape serves a critical role in paint correction, primarily safeguarding rubber and plastic trims or filling panel gaps to prevent the buildup of non-water soluble polishing oils and waxes. This ensures a cleaner correction process and minimizes the risk of staining. However, it's essential to apply tape judiciously, as improper usage can result in hard edges during polishing, leading to potential challenges such as marring and unnecessary removal of clear coat when further correcting. Therefore, its use should be reserved for specific areas where protection and precision are paramount. We recommend using polishes and waxes that are rubber and plastic safe whenever possible to minimize tape use, and to always have an isopropyl alcohol solution available to readily remove excess product during application.

Glass is extremely hard and requires abrasives that have similar properties to truly level such as cerium oxide. This may be used to correct imperfections from rock chips and wiper blade scratches and with proper techinque will not induce further defects like those experienced on paint. Most polishing is done to remove any residual oils and contaminants that may persist on the glass after a complete wash and decontamination. Often the same polishes and compounds used for paint correction are adopted as they can safely remove these impurities without reshaping the glass unnecessarily as the abrasives are less hard than both glass and cerium oxide.

SIGMA Auto Detail offers a several paint sealants and waxes that vary in durability, longevity, and gloss. They have been hand selected in each of our packages for the most optimal balance in relation to cost and maintenance applications. Ceramic Sealant – A spray form of traditional nano-ceramic coatings featured in our [Σ] SIGMA and [Σ.V] SIGMA.V packages. As a stand alone application it can last approximately 4-6 months, but can be extend up to 6-8 months in combination with other ceramic-based protectants as it diffuses and crosslinks with the paint surface. Amongst the protectants offered, it possesses the best chemical durability as well as high levels of gloss, however, its much thicker application requires several hours to completely cure. Once cured, you can expect it to withstand many car washes without performance degradation, whether traditional or touchless. Ceramic/Graphene Sealant – Included across all packages and lasts approximately 6-8 months. This product has the greatest ease of application as it can be spread uniformly during the final rinse stage of an exterior detail. Curing time is incredibly fast and the infusion of graphene creates an overall negative charge which makes it the less likely to pick up dust and mineral deposits while sporting unmatched UV resistance. Silicone/Carnauba Wax – Car waxes are a long time staple in the industry for professionals and enthusiasts alike with modern blends providing ease of application, better durability, and more consistent hydrophobicity which can rival other protectants when well maintained. Though they are the most temperature sensitive in application and the most susceptible to mechanical and chemical wear, waxes offer a unique warm, rich, and deep glow that cannot be achieved with other sealants and coatings. We incorporate silicone/carnauba wax as a one-step polish and seal in our [Σ.V] SIGMA.V package to remove scratches, swirls, and oxidation while simultaneously adding protection. In tandem with a ceramic sealant, this combination showcases unrivaled gloss and slickness with enhanced durability and longevity that can last approximately 6-8 months. Fluoropolymer Wax – Offered as a paste and is applied by hand for our [Σ.W] SIGMA.W package. Unlike traditional waxes that are often short lived, the infusion of fluoropolymers delivers a life expectancy of 12 months with the additional benefits of improved durability and resistance to water spotting as well as superior UV protection and heat dissipation. While this may boast the longer longevity relative to our other products, it can experience the same shortcomings as any car wax with regards to care and application. For this reason, any vehicles that are previously fluoropolymer waxed should have it reapplied the following year for continued performance. Nano-Diamond Coating – A 6-year ceramic coating comprising of polysilazane, silicon carbide, silicon nitride, silicon dioxide and refined detonated nano-diamonds. Exclusive to our [Σ.X] SIGMA.X package, this coating incorporates the latest advancements to provide unparallel durability, chemical/scratch resistance, gloss, and hydrophobics at a consumer level. Unlike traditional nano-ceramic coatings, the infusion of diamonds alone adds tensile strength and can increase hardness of the paint surface to a true 9H Mohs rating compared to ceramic alone at 7H. Refined detonated nano-diamonds also promotes light reflection/refraction within the matrix of a coating to improve gloss while possessing strong natural hydrophobic properties given its organic composition. In combination with the after mentioned constituents, which each enhance these specific characteristics, this specialized coating can be expected to match and surpass its rated longevity when maintained quarterly/semi-annually. Depending on season and road conditions, owners can expect longevity for any of the products listed to be reduced by up to 25% as tested in-house on an unsheltered daily driven vehicle with no maintenance washing. The use of automated car washes or regular washing without reapplication will also reduce the effectiveness of any protection overtime. All protectants used are safe on existing coatings and paint protection films. They can be also be stacked with one another though we recommend using similar products with similar base composition to promote cohesion and reduce risks of streaking and uneven application.

Paint protectants are often applied to a vehicle for their hydrophobic properties which is an excellent way to determine whether they need to be reapplied. Effective coatings will decrease surface tension and cause water to act in a beading or sheeting pattern. Beading refers to the phenomenon when water droplets form spheres on contact due to its inability to adhere to an underlying surface. This is commonly observed with fresh applications of paint protectant when its hydrophobicity is at its best. As the protectant ages, some surface tension properties are restored and rather than forming solely individual spheres, water molecules will also pool and remain attracted to one another while running off the surface, known as sheeting. Sheeting is more desirable than beading on a flat surface with low contact angles as there is less standing water left behind, minimizing the likelihood of water spots when dry. Both beading and sheeting are indicative of proper paint protection, and an observed reduction in performance may require a light car wash to remove surface contaminants to restore its properties. If water continues to be flat and is slow to drip off your vehicle, a full decontamination and/or reapplication of a paint protectant will be necessary. You can schedule an appointment with us or any local detailer to provide an exterior detail before reapplying. Should you detail at home and wish to apply or maintain these coatings yourself, most consumer variants are waxed based and are stackable with any form of existing protection once thoroughly cured. Be mindful, though waxes are highly hydrophobic, there are some sacrifices to durability and longevity and they will need frequent reapplication. Contaminants will affect repeated application overtime and therefore routine maintenance and decontamination are recommended.

High spots are areas where the ceramic coating has been applied unevenly or where excess coating has built up, resulting in raised or thicker spots compared to the surrounding surface. These high spots can be easily identified as they often appear shinier and can distort light reflection. The method of removal depends on factors such as the thickness of the spot and its cure time. It's crucial to proceed gradually from the least aggressive to more aggressive measures to preserve the integrity of the surrounding coating and paint surface. To begin, use a plush buffing towel with minimal pressure to try to relevel the coating. Alternatively, you can rehydrate the high spot by applying additional coating, as the solvents in the coating can help break it down for easier leveling. These steps are most effective within the first 1-2 hours of curing. If the high spot persists for 4 hours or longer, a light hand polish using a minor abrasive may be necessary. For spots that have fully cured for 24-48 hours, machine polishing is often required. Start with a foam pad and a minor abrasive at a lower rotation speed (2000-3000rpm), gradually increasing speed, pad, or abrasive grit until the high spot is removed. After polishing, ensure any remaining polishing oils are removed using an isopropyl alcohol solution before reapplying the coating to the affected area. Always inspect your work under good lighting after each panel or after completing each layer of coating.

Not to be confused with ceramic sealants, nano-ceramic coatings are a form of protection that provide extreme durability and longevity unlike other forms of paint protection. They offer excellent protection against scratches, UV rays, chemical contaminants, and other environmental factors that can damage your car's paint. A ceramic coating can generally last up to 2-4 years depending on the quality of the coating, preparation of the surface, level of maintenance, and the conditions and usage of the vehicle driven. However, ceramic coatings do not make your car completely immune to damage. Ceramic coatings enhance the Mohs hardness rating of the clear coat and substrate, generally from 3-4H to 6-7H. When considering a ceramic coating is only a micron thick, or a thousandths of a millimeter, one can appreciate a coating may still fail under excessive pressure. Intentional keying of a vehicle, side swiping large tree branches or a post, or impacts from high speed rocks are examples in which a ceramic coating will not offer adequate protection and instead installation of a Paint Protection Film (PPF) may be considered. Ceramic coatings instead are the most ideal for chemical resistance, such as from agents used during touchless car washes, or from environmental phenomenon like bug guts, bird droppings, tree sap, and water spots. Proper care and maintenance are still required to ensure the longevity of a coating. Regular washing, drying, and occasional reapplication with a sealant, wax, or coating are recommended to maintain the effectiveness of the ceramic.

You will find various answers to this question depending who you ask. A professional detailer may choose to throw away towels to ensure there are no future risks of scratching/marring when servicing a future vehicle. On the other hand, an enthusiast may find this practice costly and wasteful, and will choose to continue reusing towels until they are beyond repair. At SIGMA Auto Detail, we see caveats to both arguments and choose to maintain our microfiber towels and repurpose them for non-exterior services if they do not pass inspection and testing after washing. We advise the following practices should you choose to keep your ceramic coating towels: Immediate Cleaning: After using the microfiber towels to apply the ceramic coating, it's essential to immediately clean them to prevent the coating from hardening on the fabric. Use 1 towel per 2-3 panels most and have a warm bucket of water with either a rinseless wash, all purpose cleaner, or microfiber specific detergent on standby to soak used towels while you complete the coating process before having them laundered. Washing: Wash the towels separately from other laundry items using a mild or microfiber specific detergent. Avoid using fabric softeners or bleach, as they can reduce the absorbency of the microfiber and leave residues that may affect the complete removal of any coating residues. Avoid Heat: Do not use high heat when drying microfiber towels, as it can damage the fibers and cause any remaining ceramic to be baked into the material. Instead, air dry them or use a low-heat setting in the dryer as this will allow any remaining traces to be retreated and washed as many times as necessary. Inspect for Contaminants: Before reusing the towels, inspect them carefully to ensure they are free from any contaminants or debris that could scratch the surface of the coating. Ceramic residues will often appear as glass flakes or shards that will visibly clog the piles of the towel. You can use a lint roller or brush to observe if any fragments remain imbedded in the fibers. Utilizing a test panel or an inconspicuous area of the vehicle such as the door jambs is also recommended to determine if the towels are safe for exterior applications, both wet and dry. By properly cleaning and maintaining microfiber towels, you can extend their lifespan and continue to use them effectively for various detailing tasks, including ceramic coating applications. Be conscientious of the history and use case of your towels and judge for yourself whether it is safe to reuse for the task at hand. We recommend, no matter how well your ceramic coating towels are maintained, to use a new set for cars manufactured in Japan or Asia as paints used are very soft compared to American or European counterparts. You may choose to extend this suggestion to black painted vehicles as it too easily scratches and marrs as opposed to other colour variants.

Ratings are often determined based on performance and quality through real-world testing and certification in controlled environment under various conditions. Test simulate exposure to UV radiation, abrasion, chemicals, and weathering in relation to the quality and concentration of a coating's active ingredients. The longevity of the coating, and consequently how many months or years it can last before requiring reapplication, can be stipulated based on it fracturing rate. With exposure over time, the flexibility, adhesion strength, and mechanical resistance change as the chemical bonds of the coating denature. For coatings that are new to the market with prolonged life expectancies, these are often determined in lab by simulating test interactions with bond strength and cohesion, and extrapolating this data at a micron scale relative to a typical coating layer. While estimates were often far fetched with the early adoption of ceramic coatings, improved chemical analysis and more refined ingredient and bonding techniques have led to more accurate ratings. However, consumers should continue to temper expectation for a coating to reach its full cycle. The storage and care of the coating, the application surface and process of application, as well as the frequency of decontamination relative to environmental exposure are all additional factors aside from natural phenomena that can impact a coating's life expectancy. Unless a coating is tried and tested on dozens of vehicles of varying use cases across differing global climates and conditions, one can anticipate a coating to last approximately 50-75% of its rated longevity depending on the quality, with lesser alternatives unable to perform beyond a year. Ask your installer what coatings they provide to ensure it suits your expectations - you can often review the MSDS information to get a better understanding whether the active ingredients will match performance claims.

SIGMA Auto Detail offers a 6-year nano-diamond coating that is safe to apply indoor/outdoor in a wide-range of conditions. The product comprises of polysilazane, silicon carbide, silicon nitride, silicon dioxide and refined detonated nano-diamonds to demonstrate exceptional durability, chemical/scratch resistance, gloss, and hydrophobics that can withstand daily road conditions in our continental climate. This is currently our only coating on offer to provide the most value to our clients by delivering a product that incorporates the latest in coating technologies while simplifying the need to compare coatings on a year-rating basis given one application will last the average expectancy of vehicle ownership.

While it is advisable to apply a ceramic coating in a garaged or controlled setting, applications can be applied outdoors under the right conditions. To ensure the best results, be aware of the following: Temperature: Most ceramic coatings require a specific temperature range for proper application and curing. Make sure the outdoor temperature falls within the recommended range specified by the manufacturer. Extreme temperatures can affect the application and curing process. Humidity: High humidity levels can affect the curing process of ceramic coatings. It's generally recommended to avoid applying ceramic coatings in very humid conditions as it can lead to improper curing and reduced performance. Wind: Outdoor applications can be affected by wind, which may cause dust and debris to settle on the coating while it's drying. Choose a calm day or consider using a sheltered area to minimize the impact of wind during application. UV Exposure: Ceramic coatings are often formulated to withstand UV exposure, but prolonged exposure to direct sunlight during application and curing may affect the performance and longevity of the coating. It's advisable to work in shaded areas or during times when direct sunlight is minimal. Always follow the manufacture instructions of your particular ceramic coating to understand it's application and sensitivity to these conditions. Keep in mind most coatings have a particular window for layering (ex. 1-2hrs or 24hrs post application), a minimum period before safe exposure to water or rain (ex. 12-24hrs), and a timeframe required to fully cure without any exposure to chemicals (ex. 5-7 days). These can be impacted by the environmental factors stated, especially how soon a coating can be layered, and both keen observation and experience are required to ensure optimal application outdoors.

The performance of a ceramic coating can diminish over time due to embedded contaminants, scratches, or swirl marks. Fortunately, these issues can often be restored using proper cleaning techniques, including chemical decontamination and clay bar treatments, which help maintain the coating's hydrophobic properties. Polishing a ceramic-coated surface should only be considered as a last resort and requires careful execution to avoid compromising the coating’s integrity. When polishing, it's essential to use the least aggressive pad and polishing compound combination, along with the lowest recommended polishing speed. The process should be more akin to a paint enhancement rather than a full correction, requiring only a few passes with a moderate arm speed to remove light imperfections without removing significant material from the coating. However, polishing will reduce the overall thickness of the ceramic layer, and while it may temporarily extend the life of the coating, it can also accelerate its eventual failure. As such, it is crucial to weigh the pros and cons of performing a polishing enhancement versus opting for a proper removal and reapplication of the coating to ensure long-term durability and performance.

While it is generally recommended to remove and reapply the ceramic coating to the affected panel to ensure proper integrity and performance, spot repairing a ceramic coating is possible under specific conditions. This approach is typically suitable for smaller areas, no larger than the size of your hand, where the original coating was a single-layer application, and you are using the same ceramic coating product for the repair. To begin, the damaged area must be polished down to the bare paint surface, completely removing the old coating. It’s advisable to polish an area 1-2 inches larger than the surrounding damage or defect to ensure a smooth and even surface for the new application. Once the old coating is removed, reapply the ceramic coating according to the manufacturer’s instructions. During the levelling and buffing process, use minimal pressure to allow the coating to set properly and achieve a uniform finish. This method can restore the coating's functionality in localized areas but should be approached with caution to avoid compromising the overall protection.

Sadly these services are not offered at this time. However, we are always looking for ways to expand our offerings and may add these options in the future. We pride ourselves on providing top-quality detailing services to our customers and are committed to continually improving and growing our business. Keep an eye on our website, SIGMA NXT, and social media pages for updates.